Today, Sept 18, 2023, is the first day of Negroni Week.
When I told Max Wingert I was planning an epic quest for the best Negroni in Tucson, he said “One, small suggestion. Pick a different cocktail.”
But I love Negroni’s. They may not be the manliest of cocktails. But I’m not the manliest of men. All I know is that when I order a Negroni, I feel like Don Draper (even though he was an Old-Fashioned guy).
When I pick up a Negroni, I close my eyes and smell it like a glass of wine, take a decent sip and let it burn on my tongue for a good 10-15 seconds before gulping it down in one swallow like a pelican, and then open my eyes hoping Leonardo DiCaprio appears in a dark corner, tilting his head and raising his glass in my direction.
My decision to embark on a quest for the best Negroni in Tucson was inspired by my friend and mentor Kurt Ronn, who went on an epic quest for the world’s best Negroni. His journey brought him directly in front of Presedente Franciso Belati himself and his wife Francesa (the owners of both Campari and Punt e Mes). Belati would be cool, but I’m aiming higher. I’m hoping my quest puts me in front of the some of the coolest people on the planet: Tucson bartenders.
I asked Kurt for advice. He started with this:
“Here’s what I learned from years of traveling the epic quest for the world’s best Negroni. Non è il beveta che fa la differenza, è l’esperienza. (It’s not the cocktail that makes the difference, it’s the experience.)”
So here we go.
This is a progressive guide. I’ll be adding to it as we go. Where it stops, nobody knows. I’ve identified 30 places in Tucson that serve Negroni’s with intention. I might stop by opportunistically, or I might plan a visit in advance. When I do, I’ll post the date+place in an empty entry below and drop a story on Tucson Foodie’s Instagram for those of you that would like to join. I’d like that very much.
What did you say? The history of the Negroni? The perfect recipe? Okay. My friend Kurt is happy to help:
Here’s my favorite recipe from Presedente Belati and his wife Francesca.
7 ice cubes. Very important.
2/3 Campari (of course as he owns the company)
Split the gin and vermouth 1/2 and 1/2 to make the final 1/3.Stir. Serve over ice with half an orange slice in a rocks glass.
The gin should be a basic gin like Plymouth. And use Punt e Mes as the vermouth as he owns that, too.
Italians drink before dinner. The ice adds water and the Campari and vermouth are lower alcohol so his Negroni is less alcoholic, so you can drink a lot and not get drunk.
My next favorite is
1/3 Plymouth gin
1/3 Campari
1/3 Antico red vermouthOver ice with 1/2 orange slice.
The Italians never drink it up or with a twist.
Count Negroni was a Wild West show rider prior to WW1. He stayed in Italy and had a tough day. He asked the bartender to give him an americano, popular after the war, but make it stiffer. He added gin and the Negroni was born in Firenze. The original bar is now a cavello men’s store but they sell Negroni’s on the street cafe.
The best place in Florence to get a Negroni is Harry’s on the Arno. Ask for Tomas, the bartender, and tell him Presidente Francesco Bellati told you to come. The experience will be the difference!
The people I’ve met, and the bartenders who were up to the epic quest have been life changing.
9 years ago when I started the epic quest, Negroni’s were rare in the US.
BTW. Don’t let the bartender mess with the gin. Usually they change the vermouth to an amaro, which is why I have my collection.
Salute!
Oh, and send a picture of your favorite. I receive random photos from around the world of people who’ve joined the epic quest.
## Notes to self ##
Agustin chose itself as my first stop. I was dining with Chef Feng-Feng Yeh to discuss how Tucson Foodie can best support the expansion of this year’s Chinese Chorizo Festival. We went to Agustin to enjoy the ever-changing menu from Chef David Solorzano, which – to my delight as a mostly plant-based eater – always features local lion’s mane mushrooms in some innovative way.
Also, Agustin is open on Sundays.
I ordered a Negroni. As I spoke the word, I realized my epic quest had begun.
The server asked what kind of gin I wanted.
I should keep the gin consistent so I can compare, I thought. I chose Beefeater because the server told me it would be the brand every bar and restaurant in town is likely to carry.
As the server walked away, I realized I had made two critical errors.
Thenceforth, I shall drink at the bar and let the bartender choose the gin.
The Negroni at Agustin is classic. It tasted as it should, if not a tiny bit more bitter and dry than I prefer. I wished it was a bit sweeter.
Maybe Boulevardiers are more my jam.
One drink in and I’m rethinking my gender identity.
This quest is going great.
Agustin’s Negroni came in a simple heavy low ball glass tumbler with no extruded chevrons. A totally smooth glass. It was served neat with an orange twist.
I don’t yet know how to score or compare the Negroni’s on this journey. I think it’ll be more emotional that analytical. After all, it’s not the cocktail that makes the difference, it’s the experience.
One thing’s for sure: this is the best Negroni I’ve had so far on this quest. Heh. 🙂
I enjoyed the ambiance at Agustin. I was in great company with Feng-Feng. And the food was amazing. I recommend the Salmon Rillette, which comes with Barrio Bread. You can’t lose. Unless you’re a plant-based eater who never breaks the rules, in which case don’t order the Salmon Rillette. It has fish in it.
I found myself at Juniper last week, Tucson’s new hip gin bar. I ordered a Negroni because… well, that’s what I do everywhere now because of this guide. They bring me the drink shown above. I say “I’m sorry, I ordered a Negroni.” Elliot the bar manager gives me a gentlemanly reply: “Yes sir, this is indeed our Negroni.” It’s served in a tall glass over ice. I shrug and take a drink, ditching my usual smell-sip-swallow routine because this is clearly some kind of spritzer.
It tastes exactly the I way I think of a Negroni. They’ve capture my mental framework in glass. Essence of Negroni. So damn good. Everyone’s saying the Gin and Tonic at Juniper is worth the trip. This Negroni sure was.
Date TBA. Because everything at Sidecar is good.
I hear Tavolino once had/still has a Negroni menu. I guess I’ll have to try them all. Date TBD.
Interestingly, the only spot that registered to participate in the official Negroni Week.