“I’m here, chop-chop!” a man called out before taking a seat at the bar. The bartender laughed, grabbed a glass, and asked if he needed a menu.
“No,” he said, settling in. “Just the usual.”
On a Tuesday night, a woman moved through the room with a quiet speed and served me at the bar. It was hard to track her. One moment she was behind the bar and the next next she was at a table across the room, lighting a birthday candle. When I turned back, she was in front of me again and asked what I’d like.
Later, I would learn she was Maria Hernandez, better known as Nana, the chef and namesake of Nana’s Kitchen. When I mentioned her pace to her son Javier Teran, who runs the business, he laughed.
“She still runs circles around me,” he said. “She’s like the Flash.”
The restaurant started as a concept when Javier was still in high school. He and his mom daydreamed about opening something small. Years passed and the industry Javier was in collapsed. Now the timing felt right, so he asked his mom, “Are you ready?”
“Why not?” she said.
Javier doesn’t have much patience for questions about what sets Nana’s apart. To him. the answer is obvious.
“How many restaurants do you go to where Nana is sweating back and front of the house?” he said. “When are you going to see an actual Nana at a restaurant?”
He chuckled while Nana gave me a modest smile and shrugged.
All of the food comes from Nana. She explained simply that her mother was a great cook. She learned everything from her, not through recipes, but by helping in the kitchen. With nothing written down, she had to build the menu from memory.
“I try to not forget the flavors when she used to cook for us,” she said. “Most of the menu… I learned from her.”
Distributors have tried for years to sell her shortcuts, but she turns them down.
“Everything is made from scratch here,” Javier said. “Like everything, everything, everything.”
That includes grinding their own meat, making chorizo in-house, and preparing dishes like chiles rellenos by hand.
And Nana is picky with her ingredients.
“If she doesn’t like it, it doesn’t matter how cheap or how expensive it is. It’s not going in,” he said. “We’re not sacrificing quality.”
That commitment becomes visible the moment plates arrive. A five-color enchilada plate, not listed on the menu, arrived at the bar. Each one carried a different sauce and filling, like a tasting flight across Nana’s kitchen. The Chipotle sauce with chicken was my favorite; smoky and spicy with a hint of sweetness. The mole brought the most complexity with a chocolaty richness that rewarded attention. The verde sauce tasted sharp and tangy, while the red had a fullness the verde didn’t. The white sauce, made with sour cream, was the most restrained. Creamy and understated, it was a quiet contrast to everything around it.
While I was photographing it, the man next to me at the bar leaned over.
“That’s beautiful! I want that,” he said. It wasn’t a standard order, but Nana didn’t hesitate. She would gladly make it for him.
Everything at Nana’s holds the care and warmth that comes with a home-cooked meal, and the dessert is no exception. The flan is custardy and silky, the caramel is sweet rather than bitter, and a hint of cinnamon follows that adds warmth to each bite. The tres leches is substantial and fully soaked through, and the cream on top is the best part of it; cool and light against the density of the cake below.
While the food leans on tradition, the bar takes a blend of quality and innovation further than you’d expect from a neighborhood Mexican restaurant.
I ordered their award-winning Mango Tamarindo Margarita and watched Nana put it together. The drink is one of her son Marco Teran’s creations, the mind behind the bar program, and it earned the title of World’s Best Margarita in 2023. The chorus of flavors hits sweet first, then sour, then spicy. The chamoy rim adds a salty kick, and between sips you’ll notice a subtle candy crunch.
Nana’s Kitchen built a reputation on more than just one standout drink. Their prickly pear margarita followed with another award in 2024, and the restaurant earned recognition as Marana’s Best Restaurant in 2022.
“My brother came up with everything behind the bar,” Javier said.
And Marco’s innovation extends beyond the bar. He also played a major role in keeping the business alive during COVID, with inventive new programs featuring things like bottled cocktails and to-go offerings.
Marco is now reaching outward through events like one for the Agave Heritage Festival on April 11.
“This is our first time,” Javier said, “but hopefully it puts us more on the map for food, for spirits.”
Between Marco’s creativity and Javier’s taste for good tequila and bourbon (if you show some curiosity he might just pour you a shot of something rare), Nana’s has a surprisingly deep and carefully curated cocktails and spirits program. But the clearest expression of the bar’s identity comes from two bottles.
Javier brought out a reposado and an añejo from their Single Barrel Paladar selection.
“Reposado means rested. Añejo means aged,” he said.
The Reposado carries a photo of Nana, and the Añejo a photo of Nana’s mother.
“This is my mom when she was 16,” he said while pointing. “And this is my grandmother. She is the one that started it all.”
Legacy mapped out in those bottles reflect what’s happening in the kitchen: Nana is still cooking from the memory of her mother and holding onto those timeless flavors.
This memory lives on in more than just the food and the tequila.
Immediately on your left when you enter, a mural stretches across the entire wall. Spanish ships approach from one side and Aztec natives ground the other. When I asked Nana about it, she explained that it comes from a calendar that used to be her mother’s. Something ordinary that she lived with every day.
“It represents my mom’s house,” she said. “Where everything started.”
Diego, an artist and former dishwasher at the restaurant, recreated it as a mural. Today, it still serves as a visual reminder of Nana’s roots.
People are at the center of Nana’s Kitchen, and that’s what has kept it open for 18 years and counting.
“Our main goal when we opened up our doors was to make people feel at home,” Javier said. “Make people feel that they’re eating in our house. Our kitchen,” Nana added.
That idea shows up everywhere, from the regulars greeted with hugs, to laughter spilling over both sides of the bar, to the sign that says “LOVE – you don’t leave Nana’s without it.”
But the connection they have with the community is most felt when Javier talks about some of the hardest times they went through.
During COVID, when restaurants across the country were shutting down, the community around Nana’s showed up in huge ways.
“We had people coming in… buying gift certificates, saying ‘we’re not going to use these until everything’s back to normal,’” he said. “We had customers come in, ‘here’s cash, distribute it to your employees.’”
He paused for a second, visibly affected.
“I cannot express my gratitude to our community… without them, there would not be a Nana’s Kitchen.”
That connection goes both ways. When supplies were scarce, the restaurant shared what they had, selling essentials at cost and helping however they could.
“That is Nana’s Kitchen,” he said. “Family and community.”
And it’s not just talk. His mom and brother work here. His wife works here. His aunt works here. “My customers have seen my kids grow up and I’ve seen their kids grow up. Some of those kids still work here.”
“I don’t want to lose that,” he said. “I don’t want to lose the friendship, the family that we’ve connected.”
Despite the accolades and the loyal following, the future isn’t something Javier talks about in grand terms.
There are no expansion plans, no second location. “I don’t want to open up another one. It’s too much of a headache,” he said.
Instead, the goal is much more humble but no less challenging:
“To have our doors remain open. That’s it.”
Rising costs, tighter margins, and industry-wide pressure make that increasingly difficult for restaurants like Nana’s. But the mindset here hasn’t changed.
“We keep moving forward… just keep doing it,” Javier said.
Or, as Nana put it in Spanish: “Perseverancia.”
Perseverance.
Nana wants to share something important to her with a family that grows every year in the people who keep coming back.
“I want to give them the flavor.”
Nana’s Kitchen is located at 8225 N. Courtney Page Way, Suite 129. For more information, call 520-395-2508 or visit mexicanfoodtucson.com.
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