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Last modified on July 6th, 2018 at 12:06 pm
Cuisine from food truck Geronimo’s Revenge isn’t angry. In fact, it might even save you from a rough morning if you see it at 1 a.m. and are wise enough to place an order.
While the menu is approachable with comfort food classics, the food itself is more than meets the eye with details such as house-made vegan cashew cheese sauce.
Geronimo’s Revenge owner and chef Jeronimo “Mo” Madril has always been involved in the food industry.
“I grew up in restaurants,” Mo said. “My father owned Longhorn Grill and I was always helping out. I started bussing tables when I was eight years old.”
A foodie from the start, Mo went on to obtain a professional culinary education, and bought his first food truck in 2015. He spent the next two years gathering equipment, designing the exterior, and testing recipes. On April 20, 2017, Mo and his staff officially opened their masterpiece, Geronimo’s Revenge, for business.
The name might seem unusual to the average passerby. For Mo, it represents a few things dear to his heart.
“First of all, I wanted to take seasonal, local food and bring it back to the Tucson community,” Mo said. “As a World City of Gastronomy, I feel that it is our responsibility to live up to the name.”
Mo went on to explain that much of Tucson’s harvests are actually shipped elsewhere, while we tend to import goods from other areas of the country and the world.
“In addition, I was a little defiant after culinary school where I was told that the only success I would find in the food industry would be working for hotels and cruises,” Mo said. “I just wanted something different and was determined to make it happen.”
His revenge is twofold — taking back what belongs to Tucson and showing the community that it is something to be proud of, and proving that he can be successful even though he walks a less traditional path.
The appearance of Geronimo’s Revenge reflects the passionate owner — look for a van with a technicolor desert background covered in LA-style graffiti. The menu on the opposite side is playfully written onto black skateboards with neon pink, blue, and green chalk. The entrees change daily to reflect produce in-season, but offerings generally include updated Sonoran-inspired comfort foods.
For example, their Mac & Cheese ($5.50, $8.50 with meat) is served with a generous helping of fresh pico de gallo and a creamy-nutty cashew cheese. Non-vegans have the option to add beef, chicken, or pork for a hit of protein, and can also have shredded cheese melted on top. The cashew cheese has a slight coconut-like sweetness to it, contrasting against the salty shredded beef and zesty-spicy pico de gallo to create a merriment of flavors over the expertly cooked al dente noodles.
If the Genonimo Dogg ($6) is available, be sure to take advantage. A juicy all-beef hot dog is wrapped conservatively in bacon and grilled, then cradled in a soft, lightly-grilled torta roll and topped with crisp lettuce, tomato, and pickled onion. A creamy cilantro aioli swirls together with the hearty beef frank while the veggies add texture and lighten the flavors.
Another popular item is the Tucsano ($10), a Sonoran Cubano featuring carnitas, crispy ham, mayonnaise, mustard, lettuce, and thick homemade pickles on a torta roll. The carnitas are tender and juicy, brightened by the acidity of the fresh pickles. The torta roll provides a hefty foundation for the sauces and soaks in the extra juices.
In addition to the entrees, Geronimo’s Revenge offers homemade sodas which they mix using their artisan soda syrups. The Jalapeño Soda ($3.50) is spicy-sweet with a gentle slow burn. With just enough flavoring, it is easily drinkable yet intriguing, keeping you coming back for more. Other beverages offered include Prickly Pear Soda made with mint and cilantro, Mexican Coke, and cinnamon tea. Beverages are subject to change along with menu items to reflect local products in season.
Geronimo’s Revenge can be reached at (520) 282-1165. They can be found 5 – 11 p.m. Mondays at Danny’s Baboquivari Lounge, 5 – 10 p.m. Tuesdays at Crooked Tooth from 5-10, and 6 p.m. – close Wednesdays through Sundays at Che’s Lounge. The food truck is also available for catering and events. For more information, Keep up with Geronimo’s Revenge on Facebook.