Sometimes, brunch calls for something warm, plump, rich, complex, and heavy. Not today, though. Today is for something light and bright yet substantial.

Prep & Pastry’s modern take on the standard lox and bagel (I always love a perfectly toasted bagel with schmear and salmon) is a terrific start to the weekend. The Lox Toast is satisfyingly rich and tasty without inducing the need for an immediate nap.

The rosemary chèvre delivers the smoothness of cream cheese but adds to the flavor story of the dish with a hint of rosemary and an additional tang building on the sourdough toast flavor. The nod to the classic “lox and bagels” continues with a light shave of hard-boiled egg and dill.

The tea-smoked tomatoes were still firm, surprisingly fresh tasting, but melt with flavor from the apple-wood smoke and hint of Earl Grey Tea. The watercress and radish provide freshness and crunch with a bit of bite and wake up the palate.

Let’s talk about the namesake of the dish: lox. This house-smoked salmon is rich with oils and flavor yet not overwhelmed by salt or smoke.

The acid of the pickled capers is just what my tastebuds needed to round out this generously portioned meal.

Side note: Their house-made brioche and pastries really bode well for the new bakery coming our way from the folks behind Prep & Pastry — August Rhodes Market is opening soon at the original Campbell location.

Doors open from 7 a.m. and close at 3 p.m. If there’s a wait, grab a cup of coffee, order a Bloody Mary, and catch up with a friend.

Prep & Pastry is located at 6450 E. Grant Rd. (and will soon open at 2660 N. Campbell Ave.) For more information, visit prepandpastry.com.