Something that never ceases to astound me about living in Tucson and being involved with the thriving culinary scene is how one thing can lead to another. For example, a chef buddy probably knows where to get the best meats and produce while a baker friend might know someone who sells fantastic desserts out of their living room. It happens.
In fact, I was buying cookies from a friend set up at a farmers market who just happened to be talking to a friend who was in the early stages of making homemade ice cream. That friend of mine introduced me to her friend who makes ice cream, which would soon inspire a small saga of sorts.
Dean Blair handed me his business card which read “Okashi Ice Cream & Confections.”
Knowing just his first name, I asked if Okashi was his last. He told me that okashi means confection in Japanese. The desserts and ice cream he makes are inspired by his Japanese mother and his travels around Japan. In an instant, I was intrigued and we set up a time to meet and to get acquainted with his treats.
Originally from Portland, Blair and his partner now live near downtown. He had been visiting Tucson since 2019 and the idea of making Asian-influenced ice cream was an easy one to execute knowing that it’d be a hit here in the desert.
“It’s kind of ice cream weather all the time in Tucson,” said Blair. “I felt like there was definitely room to do what I wanted to do here. I was actually a little surprised that there were not as many ice cream shops as I would have anticipated when we officially moved here.”
“I imagined there being ice cream shops on every corner like coffee shops in Portland. The funny thing is, there’s more ice cream shops in Portland than there are in Tucson which is crazy to me.”
In a stately yet small-ish flat, using only one ice cream machine, Blair introduced me to his creamy creations. In that first bite, I knew I had stumbled upon something special. It was this matcha white chocolate truffle combo that got me. There was nothing overpowering, not one component that dominated, it all just worked in splendid syncopation. As my eyes rolled back in a flavor fervor, all I could do was thank my cookie lady friend.
Blair also had fresh fruit mochi treats and eclairs, which were finalized by his travels through Asia, studying European techniques in Oregon, and then finally calling the southwest home. All of it made sense and was completely new to me as far as taste and textures went.
This was a food story I had to get out and I had a feeling I could be the first to do so. The thing is, at the time, Blair did not have the cottage license to officially sell his products. It was more underground, a bit of the old hush-hush and word of mouth among friends. Writing for a major culinary platform I knew I had to wait until all issues were official.
So, I waited.
We kept in touch, even running into one another at markets and pop-ups, until one day I got that anticipated text: Cottage license secured. Just moved into a new place. I’m ready.
More of that Tucson food scene magic was to be had as Blair and his partner moved just a few blocks away from the homestead. So on a sunny early spring afternoon, I finally got to do what I wanted to do since that initial nibble — take photos and get that interview.
As I gave myself the tour of their new place, one with a prominent studio that had been transformed into a makeshift bakery, Blair explained the “how” and “why” behind Okashi.
“I had the idea quite a long time ago. I would say probably while I was a student in Japan,” said Blair. “I was a foreign exchange student, pretty much living in Tokyo most of the time, which was incredible. I was going out just about every day, eating everything I could and finding traditional Japanese dessert shops.”
“I was there for eight months and I really explored with a serious focus on what it means to make traditional desserts. I was pretty close with my host mother and we would chat about Japanese desserts all the time. She would tell me ‘You need to go to this place,’ where to get the best dorayaki, which is this red bean pancake — stuff like that. When I came back I had all of this information and inspiration.”
During the first month or two after trying Okashi, Blair had developed more of a taste and technique for fusion confections. Even though he tries to stay clear of that word, fusion, as it bears a bit of culinary snootery from years past. But, yeah, that’s exactly what he creates. They’re a joyous blend of flavors and textures derived from his time in Japan, his love of European pastries, and his use of locally provided ingredients.
Shokupan is Japanese milk bread and Blair bakes it fresh before filling it with vanilla custard cream and sweetened red beans. Again, just like the ice cream mentioned earlier, the sweetness is tempered by the savory and that bread binds it all together with a pillowy promise. The interior may change, as it should, to go with the whim of Blair and the seasonal switch, but let’s hope nothing changes about the Shokupan because on its own it stands alone.
There were chocolate and hojicha (Japanese green tea) custard-filled eclairs, candied ginger mochi bites made with vegan butter and kinako (soybean flour that boasts flavors similar to peanut butter and black tea), and fruit daifuku featuring white bean paste coated fruit encased in sweet gyuhi mochi.
It’s always a sight to watch an artist grow within such a short time frame. You have to consider that The Beatles were doing mop-top pop songs in 1964 and just three years later produced Sgt. Pepper’s Lonely Hearts Club Band. Wait, did I just compare Dean Blair to The Beatles?
His delicate and delicious confections are one medium, but what about the ice cream that sent my senses reeling? That day he had two options for me: rosemary pine nut and browned butter. This was quite an honor as Blair currently is doing less and less ice cream. Sort of.
Here’s why: His ice cream machine can only produce four pints per batch and during the height of his pre-cottage license popularity, Blair was doing up to 80 pints a week. Each batch takes about an hour to churn, not to mention all of the time and effort that goes into procuring recipes, ingredients, and materials. So, it makes sense that Blair is keeping the ice cream section of his confections down to a lower hum, even though the machine will always be buzzing.
As with all enterprising entrepreneurs that start small but gain a large following, Blair is considering an actual spot with a commissary and a more spacious workspace.
“Just based off of the sort of reception I’ve gotten, I feel like I could do it if I had a little bit of help in a more commercial space,” said Blair. “I could probably start to do wholesale as well and really invest in doing pop-ups. I’m entertaining all avenues really but I would definitely like to expand.”
For now, Okashi is all online orders.
Something else that never ceases to amaze me is the dedication and tenacity of chefs, be they sweet or savory, who can produce beautiful memories. Dean Blair and his Okashi Ice Cream & Confections are exemplary in all said capacities. Not to mention a good percentage of what he produces is totally vegan — talk about amazing things.
For more information, visit okashiconfectionery.com and follow Okashi Ice Cream & Confections on Instagram.
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