Ugly is so hot right now.
David Chang’s Netflix program Ugly Delicious forsakes haute cuisine in favor of focusing on popular foods. However, the first episode is on pizza. Who thinks pizza is ugly? Even Tiffany & Co. has pepperoni pizza earrings.
Although beauty is in the eye of the beholder, some dishes would be totally unappealing if you couldn’t smell or taste it.
We’re here for you. Our tongues are fearless. So here are the dishes that are worth tasting, even though they’re not Instagram-friendly.
BBQ Tail Confit
The Parish, 6453 N. Oracle Rd.
Have you ever seen a tail on a butchered pig? You probably don’t want to. But dang it, does the fatty, collagen-rich cut taste good when it’s confit, fried, and cut with the acidity of mustard and pretty pickled onions.
For more information, visit theparishtucson.com.
Biscuits and Gravy
Welcome Diner, 902 E. Broadway Blvd.
You can’t hide behind those chives, sausage gravy. But you do a damned fine job at blanketing Welcome Diner’s pillowy biscuits.
For more information, visit welcomediner.net.
Burros
Anita Street Market, 849 N. Anita Ave.
Let’s face it, burritos and burros aren’t as photogenic as their popular cousin, the taco. And most burritos look the same until you cut them in half. Anita’s burros stand a hair above the competition with their dreamy, soft fresh flour tortillas.
Keep up with Anita Street Market on Facebook.
Chicken Feet
Sushi Lounge, 4802 S. 6th Ave.
Cooked or raw, chicken feet still look like chicken feet. They’re also a difficult food to eat elegantly, considering how nibbly it gets and all the bones you’ll need to spit out. The gelatin-rich meat and wet skin serve as an ideal canvas for the deeply savory, slightly sweet sauce that makes this dish worth it.
Keep up with Sushi Lounge on Facebook.
Chili Dogs
Pat’s Chili Dogs, 1202 W. Niagara St.
There’s gotta be at least five sitcoms where chili was central in a character’s plan to play hooky. Chili and Campbell’s Chunky™ Soups, at least. Regardless of their appearance, chili dogs at Pat’s have managed to stay a local favorite for several decades.
For more information, visit Pat’s Chili Dogs on Yelp.
Geoduck (Pronounced “Gooey Duck”)
Sushi on Oracle, 6449 N. Oracle Rd.
Don’t worry, the video above is safe for work. That object you see is the siphon of the geoduck, a type of clam native to the northwestern US and western Canada. You wouldn’t just grab it and bite it out of the water, but it makes some delicate sushi with flavor and texture in between scallops and surf clams.
Keep up with Sushi on Oracle on Facebook.
Injera
Queen Sheba, 5553 E. Grant Rd.
The spongy sour bread looks like a pancake sliced through its center. The toppings of sorted indiscernible meats and veggies don’t help. But the nose comes in handy here to detect the fragrant berbere and other spices. You’ll become an addict in no time.
For more information, visit queenshebatucson.com.
Italian Beef with Everything
Luke’s Italian Beef, 1615 S. Alvernon Way
https://www.instagram.com/p/BbA-jxrjLmZ/?taken-at=413648544
Described from a purely visual perspective, the Italian beef is a soggy sandwich with overcooked roast beef and pale vegetables. In reality, the beef is juicy and fragrant with oregano. The giardiniera boosts umami with olives and cuts through the richness with pickled celery and peppers. The soggy bread is filled with beef jus for a messy, sinfully enjoyable eating experience.
For more information, visit Luke’s Sandwiches on Yelp.
Loco Moco
Island Plate Lunch, 5755 E. River Rd., Ste. 141
Legend has it; the loco moco was created as the result of some hungry teenage surfers seeking something filling but cheap. Thankfully, it’s mighty tasty with Island Plate Lunch gravy, which might include bacon in its list of ingredients.
Keep up with Island Plate Lunch on Facebook.
Oxtail Stew
D’s Island Grill JA, 3156 E. Fort Lowell Rd.
Oxtail might have some beautiful symmetry in its raw form sliced, but it melts into a chunky brown pile when stewed. Oxtail happens to have an exceptionally high amount of connective tissue, leading to a sumptuous sauce, elevated with thyme and Jamaican spices.
For more information, visit dsislandgrilltucson.com.
Ugly Steak
Dickman’s Meat & Deli, 6472 N. Oracle Rd. • 7955 E. Broadway Blvd.
The Ugly Steak doesn’t have the fat cap of premium steaks, such as the NY strip or rib eye. However, this proprietary cut of beef isn’t short on rich, beefy flavor. Marinate it Vietnamese style and toss it on the grill for a jaw-dropping steak.
Keep up with Dickman’s Meat & Deli on Facebook.
Article written by:
Jackie Tran
More about JackieJackie Tran is a Tucson-based food writer, photographer, culinary educator, and owner-chef of the now-closed food truck Tran’s Fats. Although he is best known locally for his work for Tucson Foodie, his work has also appeared in publications such as Bon Appétit, National Geographic, and the New York Times.
An adventurous foodie, he enjoys culinary experiences ranging from seasonal omakase to sloppily devouring green chili patty melts in his car afterhours. His favorite foods include aguachile, garlic noodles, and leftover fried chicken illuminated by the fridge light. His favorite drinks include morning micheladas, fireside imperial stouts, candle-lit negroni, and grassy mezcales.
Outside of food, he also loves playing musical instruments, karaoke, Tetris, Super Smash Bros. Melee, and petting Addie’s dog Spaghetti.
If you’d like to stalk him, visit his Instagram @jackie_tran_ or jackietran.com.
