This article was written by Noor Haghighi and first appeared on Arizona Sonoran News.
For Eleazar Beltran, owning one Mexican restaurant out of hundreds in Tucson is never about competition.
“You have to focus on your customers: what they need and what they want. Not seeing what the other person is doing,” he said.
Since age 11, Beltran has been helping his family in the kitchen, and today he runs his own joint: Paco’s Mexican Food located at 5563 E. Grant Rd. The spot has been open since 1995, when it was originally located on Speedway Boulevard where Tea Transit is now located. Paco’s moved to Grant Road in 2001.
1995 was the year this story really took off, when Beltran said a local newspaper wrote an article about Paco’s that was well-received by the community and had them flocking to his restaurant. Nearly thirty years later, Paco’s Mexican Food has its own spot in The New York Times, featured as one of two best spots for breakfast burritos in a 36-hour itinerary in Tucson.
Beltran was born in Chicago and lived in San Diego before moving to Tucson for business in 1995, and he’s always been passionate about food, like the rest of his family. Today, he said he is motivated by the smile he receives on the other side of the counter.
“I spend my time here every day. It’s my home, it’s my life,” Beltran said.
When you arrive at Paco’s, before even entering the restaurant, the tiny bricked exterior welcomes visitors into what is clearly a homey space. The plain tiles on the floor, skeletons and dried chiles hanging from the ceiling and plants lining the center of the room create a warm environment. Red splashes in a watermelon painting, on the walls and on the lips of the woman handing patrons their food balance with the warmth to create a lively atmosphere.
It’s small and humble, but the drive-thru line of 10 cars says something legendary is cooking inside.
“The lines tell you everything: that they’re happy with what we provide,” Beltran said.
Even as the restaurant’s owner, Beltran never tires of the food. The flavor is classic, but he has developed it over the years to fit the taste of his customers.
“They really twist us here a lot, you know. For example, we didn’t serve breakfast burritos with potatoes. We have the potatoes because people just like a lot of potatoes in this city. And then everything is salty for them, you know?” he said. “They’re happy with it, it’s something that we have to adjust.”
Beltran said he’s made a lot of sacrifices for his business. He’s missed birthdays and his kids’ graduations. And every single business day, he spends time at Paco’s helping out where he can.
Adan Baca, a University of Arizona student, always orders the same meal at Paco’s every time: a classic bean and cheese burrito and a Mexican Coke, even though he’s a meat lover.
Baca typically dines at Paco’s with his friend, Eli, who introduced him to the spot more than a six mile drive from the UA campus. He said that whenever the two want to catch up, they’ll meet at Paco’s and chat over burritos.
“I just love the vibe — it’s so Mexican,” Baca said, admiring the decor.
And he described the food as “gas” – Gen-Z slang for delicious.
It was indeed gas. The carne asada quesadilla, just $6.30, had a splendid amount of grease. Its soft tortilla took the shape of my hand, and the smell was reminiscent of saliva-inducing, stomach-grumbling grill fumes. Inside, there was a generous helping of carne laid in perfectly melted yellow cheese. Not a single bite of meat ended up spat into my napkin, as all the fat and squishy pieces were cooked off.
The shredded beef burrito, which cost $5.50, came with a delightful share of tomatoes and green peppers simply seasoned and cooked to the perfect level of crunchy-soft. With a drizzle of green salsa, the burrito’s flavors came together harmoniously.
Like my dad says, it’s “happy food.” There’s no way it cannot comfort you and bring joy to your day.
The Covid lockdown posed its obstacles for Beltran despite the yummy food; he said he felt lonely only seeing people through the drive-thru window. Without the noise of his customers inside, he had to cause a ruckus of his own. “Little by little, day by day,” he chipped away at a renovation and soon, the rustic vibes turned modern.
He stripped the wooden decor that he said was making the restaurant look depressing, and added green plants to brighten the space.
If he had 10 of himself, Beltran said he would consider expanding the business, too.
Despite the aesthetic adjustments, the food at Paco’s has never changed, and the prices are straight out of 2015. In fact, the most expensive item on the menu is a $12 carne asada or carnitas platter. This ensures quality and value for customers, Beltran said.
He said nearly every ingredient arrives the day it’s served, especially because he has such little room for storage. While food is fresh and clean, the large menu poses a slight challenge for him.
But for now, that’s not going to change. With a long line of long-time customers, Beltran said, he wouldn’t want anyone’s favorite item to go missing.
It happened once, and Beltran never deleted a menu item again.
He said Paco’s was the first Mexican restaurant in Tucson to serve a chicken grill burrito, which had sour cream and lettuce inside. It became a fan favorite and other restaurants started to hop on the trend, he said. But there were issues with storing the chicken, so he dropped it when he moved Paco’s to Grant Road.
“But I didn’t know that the customers from over there were going to come over here,” he said, pointing from west to east.
One person even called to ask for the burrito which had been axed from the menu.
But while the chicken grill may be forgotten, the food on Paco’s menu will certainly leave you wanting more.
Paco’s Mexican Food is located at 5563 E. Grant Rd. For more information, visit pacosmexicanfood.com.
Arizona Sonoran News is a news service of the University of Arizona School of Journalism.
